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A Path Away From the Crowds Skagway, Alaska
By Theresa Gabriel
I was hanging out in Downtown Skagway waiting to fly over the mountain to our next stop, Gustavus. The fog was low and thick in both towns, temporarily grounding all flights.
There isn't much to the downtown except tourist shops and tourists. Some of the shops are interesting and even have reasonable prices. The tourists, however, have a tendency to crowd the sidewalks and pour into the streets, seldom watching for traffic. I acted the same way the first time I walked down State Street, but after four days I saw the "Disneyland atmosphere" clearly. The locals say their daily forecasts have nothing to do with the weather, but with the number of cruise ships scheduled to dock. Our hostess remarked one morning "I've got to get to the store early, it's a four-boat day."
During our stay in Skagway we spent most of our time away from downtown. We visited Dyea and the start of the Chilkoot Trail, getting a tour from nationally known "Dyea Dave." We did some half-serious hiking, took the train to Lake Bennett and listened to our share of stories from the locals.
Today I was stuck downtown, not able to venture very far because it was necessary to check in with the pilot every hour or so.
I noticed a trail on the town map that crossed the Skagway River just past the airstrips and went around Yakutania Point. Since I needed a little peace and quiet anyway, I ditched my travel companions and took off into the fog. The trail was just a kid's bike path.
The noise of the town soon disappeared behind me. The fog limited my visibility. I entered a new world, hearing whales even before I arrived at the point of boulders. This world was cool and misty. I climbed out on the boulders separating two inlets, one busy and noisy, and one removed and full of wild things. I sat down on a cold stone and attuned by senses. I couldn't see the whale; but its breathing seemed so close. I sat quietly. I heard the whales breathe repeatedly, just across the small inlet leading to Dyea. I sat in blind silence and listened. Blow. Silence. Blow. Silence. Two dolphins swam by below me. Silence. Blow. Silence.
That is where I met Alaska that day. The experience was simple, yet overwhelming.
The easy sights aren't always the best sights, often created for the tourists. The best experiences often take a little effort to discover. When visiting someplace new, remember what brought you there in the first place: the mountains, the ocean, the river, the ancient sights, the fall colors, or the whales.
About the Author
Paths began to beckon Theresa when she was 12, visiting the Bridger Wilderness in Wyoming. Walking, dancing, and movement are a part of her, nourished by John Denver's musical challenge for her to "fly." She has walked up mountains and through forests in Wyoming, Germany, Switzerland, and Austria. She's lived in Germany and has traveled extensively in Europe, even leading a pilgrimage. Her recent walks in the Grand Canyon and Alaska inspired her to begin her dream business of "walking with women." Learn more about Theresa Gabriel and her Life Discovery Tours at her web site. Women Summit LLC http://www.womensummit.com
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