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Sherry - Spanish Sunshine in a Bottle! (part 2 - Vineyards, Grapes & Vintage)
By Michael Johnson
THE VINEYARDS
There is in the soil of the 15,000 acres of vineyards of the Jerez country,
lime, clay and sand, but in widely varying proportions, mixed quite differently,
and 'peppered' in an erratic manner with small quantities of various minerals,
the importance of which, as regards the quality of the grapes and of the wine
made from them, is considerable. The best Sherries all come from vineyards rich
in lime: they are called Albarizas, from albo, white, their soil being chalk
white. They are the vineyards upon which the ancient fame of Sherry was built
and still stands. Carrascal, Macharnudo, Balbaina and Anina, within a few miles
to the north-west and west of Jerez, are the largest and among the best of the
Albariza vineyard districts; they are divided among a large number of owners.
Nearly two-thirds of all the Sherry-producing vineyards are Albarizas. The
vineyards known as Barros (some 21 per cent. of total), are mostly to the
south-east of Jerez; their soil contains a higher proportion of clay: it is
richer and darker. Others, called Arenas (17 per cent.), are scattered here and
there in what might be called sand pockets; they produce more 'grapes to the
acre, but grapes fit only for making the lighter types of Sherry.
THE GRAPES
Of the limited number of white grape varieties that flourish in the lime,
clay and sandy soils of Jerez vineyards, one is outstanding, the white Palomino,
also known as Listan amongst other names. It is grown in all Albariza vineyards,
as well as in some others, and it bears large bunches of medium-sized, very
sweet, golden grapes. The Canocazo or Mollar blanco is also a very sweet grape
that is cultivated in Albariza vineyards, but it is too shy a bearer to be
popular. The Pedro Ximenez, the sweetest grape of all, is grown to a limited
extent only, and in the folds of some Albariza vineyards which hold a little
more moisture. Albillo grapes are mostly grown in Barros vineyards, whilst the
Perruno, Mantuos, Beba and the larger type of white Moscatel (gordo) are
varieties cultivated chiefly in Arenas vineyards: they yield a greater abundance
of grapes, quite sweet to the taste because of their lack of acidity, but most
of them are actually not so rich in grape-sugar. Thus, whilst the alcoholic
strength of a wine made from some of these grapes averages 11 per cent., that
which is made from Palomino grapes reaches 12.5 to 14 per cent., and from Pedro
Ximenez grapes 15 per cent. of alcohol.
THE VINTAGE
September is the Vintage month when Palomino, Pedro Ximenez and all the finer
species of grapes are ripe and must be gathered, whilst coarser grapes are
usually picked in October. The pickers do not cut off all bunches
indiscriminately, but the fully ripe ones only, going up and down the same rows
of vines several times; there is little or no rest for the vintage workers
between sunrise and sunset, but there is no sign of any feverish hurry among
them, nor of un-Spanish haste. The freshly picked grapes are conveyed in baskets
or hampers to large holders set on the back of a patient mule, and when these
holders are full, the grapes are delivered to the nearest farm, where they
arrive fresh and dusty: the contents of each holder is then spread upon round
esparto grass rush mats, and they are left there for twenty-four hours in the
open before being brought to the lagar within, and pressed. The Pedro Ximenez
grapes, for making sweet wine, are left under the scorching September sun for a
fortnight; they are covered at night with esparto grass matting to avoid any
condensation of the morning dew upon them.
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Some other articles by Michael Johnson | |
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